Unlikely to be clogged screen could be something as simple as woodruff key sheared on main pump gear likely if nut has loosened as this is twin [ main and pto ] pump, the unload valve in top cover can stick but that would not effect pto, up to you but i would remove pump then you can see drive gear and get someone to turn eng over on starter[ stop out] and if gear turns pump is trouble you can also remove screen to clean, don't forget to drain oil first.
Project Ford 5000
- Thread starter AJR75
- Start date
That makes a lot of sense to me- thank you, will drop the oil and have a bit of a looksee. Glad I didn't bolt the steps back on now! Also noticed that where the brake clevis should attach to the cross shaft with a pin, someone has just welded the two together. No idea why, maybe they lost the pin or something but what a bodge.
If you remove hyd pump there is a plastic pipe to remove between the pump and PTO clutch pack it’s fiddly
Yes I spied that when the box was out, Knowing my luck I'll break it
So... we have hydraulics and a working PTO. Got to thinking about things (not too much!) and decided on lifting the top cover. The port tube up which the oil flows was bone dry and turning the engine over showed the pump being driven but not flow. The clear tube to the PTO valve was also empty. Undid the suction filter which was clogged solid and popped a new one on- turned over engine and out squirts oil from the tube. Popped the lid back on and started albeit not much above tickover. PTO now starts and stops as it should, hydraulics raise but only in the position control and nothing at all when set in draft. They're also incredibly slow and do not go fully up.
Thinking now it's time to work through the lid.....
Thinking now it's time to work through the lid.....
Pump might be weak if been running too long with blocked filter
Frustrating afternoon spent working through the lift cover- replacing all the O rings and checked out the unloader valve to find that the steel "ring" had broken into several pieces. The seal kit I had had a replacement steel ring so popped this on and reinstalled the valve.... it's a tightish fit in the bushing.... to find no raise or lower on the lift arms. Swapped it for a rubber one to determine if this was the fault- arms raised once in position control then nothing in draft or position.
Any siggestions? I'm slightly scratching my head with this at the moment!
Any siggestions? I'm slightly scratching my head with this at the moment!
Surprised to hear pick-up blocked but at least thats another tick off list, unload valve can stick and as it's so long ago now i am not sure but think steel ring was replaced by a sintered ring and later models with o-ring sounds like it has stuck again, as for draft and position they must be set with precise measurements or special tools.
@forblue so yes, there was so much silicone around the top cover and where the pump bolts on it's a wonder anything worked in there.
My money was on the unload valve as well- I popped the valve out again and the rubber O ring had blown (granted it's not the correct part). I put the steel ring back on and that valve is proper tight to move- you have to knock it with a hammer to get it to shift so I'm leaning towards this being the issue.
Have ordered the correct ring from T H White which should be here next week at a cost of approx £60 compared to the £19 ish for the whole kit from Sparex says to me that even at main dealer prices there's something a bit special about this particular seal.
Also, and frustratingly when you lay out the broken ring it doesn't form a full circle so am wondering if there's a bit floating around in the cylinder somewhere causing mischief.
In terms of settings, I've followed the manual procedure but was wondering about the dimension of 82.5mm ( I think that's what it was) and where this was measured from? The 5.08mm dim from the face of the control valve to the bushing I've measured using a vernier gauge so happy enough that it's accurate.
My money was on the unload valve as well- I popped the valve out again and the rubber O ring had blown (granted it's not the correct part). I put the steel ring back on and that valve is proper tight to move- you have to knock it with a hammer to get it to shift so I'm leaning towards this being the issue.
Have ordered the correct ring from T H White which should be here next week at a cost of approx £60 compared to the £19 ish for the whole kit from Sparex says to me that even at main dealer prices there's something a bit special about this particular seal.
Also, and frustratingly when you lay out the broken ring it doesn't form a full circle so am wondering if there's a bit floating around in the cylinder somewhere causing mischief.
In terms of settings, I've followed the manual procedure but was wondering about the dimension of 82.5mm ( I think that's what it was) and where this was measured from? The 5.08mm dim from the face of the control valve to the bushing I've measured using a vernier gauge so happy enough that it's accurate.
Thanks for clarifying- when you say top of the quadrant I assume this means as far up as the lever would go i.e. past the first stop and into the position where the pump is constantly pumping?
And a useful tip on the valve lapping paste as well! I'll see what the fit is like with the correct CNH part and go on from there. Certainly with the sparex ring you can't shift the thing with your fingers at all. Will also fish around with the magnet and see if I can coax this last bit of ring out from wherever it might be hiding
I have a problem with my preforce hydraulics it lifts good and strong it corrects too much constant bobbing with weight on. stop the engine arms go down to fast . but pull the external services button out it will hold anything all day.we’re should I be looking?
The pump should not be constant pumping if you look at linkage there is a small pin that protrudes over edge of lift cylinder so when lift arms reach top the piston is pushing the pin and linkage which is attached to control valve into neutral, the lift lever quadrant may be marked with a small cut to denote where lever should be to set up if not it's as i stated from the top to measurement and in an arc, i will send page later, as for finding ring part good luck as it could be in-between control valve bushing and cylinder housing.
So what model 4000 ?, will come back to you later i am not like you rich farmers as always something to do, lol.
Thank you! It's got an aftermarket quadrant on it so there's no indent for the setting point.
Yes that was my thought as well- the other piece had migrated between the two but was large enough to pick out easily enough.
1967 5000
Possibly check valve seat, ball pitted or spring weak or broken to get at it is top cover off, remove ram cylinder and between top of cyl and cover there are two valves one is retained by circlip ignore that and remove the other one, it has a small groove around top, using a thin piece of wire it can be removed, then spring and ball then using a stiffer wire remove ball seat look closely at this and ball if pitted replace also check both o-rings. replace all o-rings between cyl and top cover.
Thank you it will be a job for someday at the moment, but the seat just basically lifts out ?
So a call yesterday from T H White to say that the seal had landed and took the (impatient) decision to pop across to their Frome depot to collect it. Good service and incredibly helpful team there especially considering they don't know me from Adam and in the scheme of things it was a trifling little order.
So set about popping the unload valve out again with special tool AJR 75 007.5
Then, rightly or wrongly another little tool I made up to compress the ring and allow easy fitment into the bore- this was from using the sparex rings which were really tight, I'm guessing the correct CNH part would fit with a bit of wiggling. The valve is now a nice easy sliding fit so fingers crossed at this stage.
Set up the linkage as per the book and @forblue instruction, popped the lid back on and we now have fully functioning hydraulics in draft and position control. I've not tried them with a weight but have no reason to suspect any issues....
Then set about correcting the Farmer bodge on the clutch pedal:
So set about popping the unload valve out again with special tool AJR 75 007.5
Then, rightly or wrongly another little tool I made up to compress the ring and allow easy fitment into the bore- this was from using the sparex rings which were really tight, I'm guessing the correct CNH part would fit with a bit of wiggling. The valve is now a nice easy sliding fit so fingers crossed at this stage.
Set up the linkage as per the book and @forblue instruction, popped the lid back on and we now have fully functioning hydraulics in draft and position control. I've not tried them with a weight but have no reason to suspect any issues....
Then set about correcting the Farmer bodge on the clutch pedal:
