Yes, constant pump and 3 way valve in external 2When you say you got 3000 from the tipping pipe I assume you have selector valve and the linkage was isolated?
Ok and you say cylinder and seals are new? New o ring between cylinder and top cover?
There is a shock valve in the selector valve, these can go weak.
I test with a selector valve that has the shock valve blocked off so it can't blow. The only real check is to replace the selector valve with a transfer cap then test at the 3/8 port on the top lh side of the cover.
Yes mechanic fitted new O ringIt's response control. It stops the control valve moving quickly thereby stopping the arms fluctuating when in draft. It only works on the lowering side of the control valve so it can be used as a rate of drop control too.
I would remove the selector valve, and on the mounting face you will see a large hollow screw type bung. Remove this and the spring behind it. Replace the spring with a cut down bolt then replace the bung and tighten it until it clamps the ball bearing that was held by the spring. Refit the selector valve and test at the 3/8 port on the lh top of the top cover with valve in linkage. You can't do any harm as the the pressure control valve will prevent any over load.
Have you got a new oring between the selector valve and top cover?
Well if you get 3000 from external 2 the pump is obviously working correctly and the orings on the stack pipe are ok. That leaves shock valve, cylinder seals or cylinder oring
Yes possiblywill hopefully get a chance to have a look this weekend. was wondering when i remove the sidecover where the dipstick is, with the aid of a borescope shoudl i be able to see where it is leaking when i put a load on the lift arms
It's response control. It stops the control valve moving quickly thereby stopping the arms fluctuating when in draft. It only works on the lowering side of the control valve so it can be used as a rate of drop control too.
I would remove the selector valve, and on the mounting face you will see a large hollow screw type bung. Remove this and the spring behind it. Replace the spring with a cut down bolt then replace the bung and tighten it until it clamps the ball bearing that was held by the spring. Refit the selector valve and test at the 3/8 port on the lh top of the top cover with valve in linkage. You can't do any harm as the the pressure control valve will prevent any over load.
Have you got a new oring between the selector valve and top cover?
It is stopping the shock valve in the selector valve from opening so if you then get good pressure it must be the faultis this operation you describe here isolating the shock valve or is this another valve
Can it be done through the side opening or top cover off againBroken or weak draft control spring then. Easy to remove and check as long as the ring nut isn't sized.
Broken or weak draft control spring then. Easy to remove and check as long as the ring nut isn't sized.
It's behind where the top link connects in the tubular part of the top cover casting. Remove the top pin from the bracket that the top link pins to (lambs tail). Pull back the rubber cover and you will see a ring nut with internal grooves. There is a small grub screw in the side of the casting that locks the ring. Undo the screw and remove the ring and whole assembly will come out. However the grub screw and ring will probably need heat to get them out. If you get it out, come back and I will explain the adjustment.Can it be done through the side opening or top cover off again
Can it be adjusted to tighten it even through side window
All draft related stuff was fine before this project started,
It's behind where the top link connects in the tubular part of the top cover casting. Remove the top pin from the bracket that the top link pins to (lambs tail). Pull back the rubber cover and you will see a ring nut with internal grooves. There is a small grub screw in the side of the casting that locks the ring. Undo the screw and remove the ring and whole assembly will come out. However the grub screw and ring will probably need heat to get them out. If you get it out, come back and I will explain the adjustment.
The adjustment is to screw the ring nut in so there is no end play. That is after you have removed the assembly and adjusted the spring on it retainer.
Iirc, position transport, draft down.what position should draft lever and position control levers be in to check